The Role of Refurbishment: Inside the Costumes of The Sleeping Beauty - Boston Ballet

The Role of Refurbishment: Inside the Costumes of The Sleeping Beauty

By Boston Ballet Staff

Left Photo by Deborah Moe

Right Photo by Brooke Trisolini

A closer look at how decades-old costumes are preserved, restored, and returned to the stage.

Lauren Herfindahl in Marius Petipa’s The Sleeping Beauty

Photos by Brooke Trisolini

Chisako Oga in Marius Petipa’s The Sleeping Beauty by Liza Voll

Costume by Brooke Trisolini

Few ballets carry a costuming legacy that can still be seen on stage today. Originally a collaboration between choreographer Marius Petipa and composer Peter Ilyich Tchaikovsky, The Sleeping Beauty premiered in 1890 at the Mariinsky Theatre in St. Petersburg, Russia.

It was Nicolai Sergeyev, a former assistant to Petipa, who brought The Sleeping Beauty to the West. Sergeyev left Russia in 1918 after the October Revolution, and with him, notebooks containing choreographic notations for about two dozen ballets. He first staged Petipa’s production in 1921 for Diaghilev’s Les Ballets Russes, and again in 1939 for Ninette de Valois and the Vic-Wells Ballet, which would later become The Royal Ballet.

Following World War II, The Sleeping Beauty reopened the Royal Opera House at Covent Garden in 1946. De Valois oversaw the production, incorporating her choreography alongside Frederick Ashton’s. In 1977, she re-designed the ballet, commissioning Emmy Award-winning designer David Walker to create new sets and costumes which Boston Ballet purchased in 1992. This version of Petipa’s revered production premiered at Boston Ballet in 2005 and has remained in the Company’s repertoire ever since.

Photo by Brooke Trisolini

Now nearly 50 years after the costumes’ original construction, the Boston Ballet Costume Shop restores them every time the Company performs The Sleeping Beauty, to return them to the rich, colorful palette Walker intended upon their creation in the late 1970s.

“This show is like my weightlifting show,” said Wardrobe and Costume Rental Manager Heather McLernon, “because of how heavy [the costumes] are.” The heaviest costume, The King’s, she estimates, is at least 35 pounds. This is because these costumes are constructed with the same textiles used in the late 1970s, when fewer lightweight, breathable fabric options could replicate the lavish, Baroque look of The Sleeping Beauty’s 17th-century setting.

Velour and brocade, more commonly associated with upholstery and furniture, appear in costumes throughout the ballet. “Now, if we were to make this same costume, we’d make it different materials that aren’t so heavy but still have the same look,” McLernon explains. “Though they wouldn’t be as rich, I feel.”

This is exactly why the Boston Ballet Costume Shop spends countless hours repairing, refreshing, and refurbishing decades-old garments and their rich history rather than creating new replacements; to bring their living history back to the stage, performance after performance.

Maintaining these textiles is no easy feat, as many of the fabrics, detailing, and materials are irreplaceable due to age. Dozens of boxes sit both in the Costume Shop at Boston Ballet’s South End headquarters, and even more at Boston Ballet’s 40,000-square-foot warehouse in Newburyport. Within what McLernon calls “craft boxes” are scraps of various fabrics, disassembled accessories, hand-painted beads and rhinestones, and even synthetic hair, all from the original production.

“These are old tiaras, or what we call them, dead tiaras,” McLernon says while opening a box within a craft box. “These are things that were remade, but we still keep pieces of.” The Costume Shop “harvests” old materials from older versions of accessories, ensuring their look and design stay the same, while replacing elements that have started to dull, or even fall apart.

Even in the midst of repairs and adjustments, a sense of adoration and care remains constant. Each garment carries its own set of challenges, and each stitcher, draper, and supervisor handles each one with the utmost care. “I love these costumes,” McLernon can be heard whispering when shuffling through almost every rack.

Experience these remarkable costumes on stage in THE SLEEPING BEAUTY, May 28–June 7.

The Sleeping Beauty May 28–June 7, 2026